Ever since I started donning my mask and fins, diving at Sipadan Island has been at the top of my wishlist. And why wouldn't it? After all, Sipadan is renowned as one of the world's best dive sites. Moreover, Sipadan is not in a far-flung locale; it's right here in my home country! Right at the doorstep, as the saying goes.

The opportunity to visit Sipadan finally presented itself during MIDE 2023. I spied an attractive 5D4N diving package offered by Buwan Dive Resort that's too good to resist. At long last, Sipadan beckons….

Diving at Sipadan Island - Experiences of a first-time visitor

I've been diving since 2016, mainly within Peninsula Malaysia. In fact, my first dive in Malaysian Borneo came in 2023, at Sepanggar and Mantanani Islands, Sabah. The closest I came to Sipadan was a 2016 snorkelling trip to Mabul. Even then, I was highly impressed by the diversity of underwater life at these locations. Needless to say, expectations for Sipadan were sky-high.

Journey to Sipadan

Fast-forward to May 2024, and I was finally ready to dive at Sipadan Island. On the day, I was joined by my dive buddy (my sister) and 5 others. After quickly checking our diving permits, we set off from Semporna (our resort was located here).

Our day's diving itinerary included three dives; however, every diver is only allowed two dives at Sipadan daily. Thus, for our first dive, we headed to nearby Mabul Island. 

Unlike Sipadan, Mabul is well-developed. Many popular dive resorts and small villages are located here. Mabul is a decent diving destination and has built up a reputation for muck diving, like Malaysia's very own Lembeh Straits.

We went to Mabul's popular Lobster Wall site for our visit, which turned out pretty good (no lobsters, though). Nevertheless, it was only an appetiser for the main course to come.

Sight of Sipadan

After completing our dive at Mabul, we set a course for Sipadan. Approaching the island, its pristine beauty was evident, even above the water. Straddling the horizon, the forested island gleamed like a glinting emerald amongst the shimmering sapphire sea.

Flocks of frigatebirds soared majestically above while fluffy white clouds rolled in the distance. Even the aquatic life didn't want to be left out - flying fish gliding away frantically as our speedboat crossed their paths. 

Sipadan beckons!

Subsequently, our boat dropped us off on the sandy beach on the northern side of Sipadan. This was to register ourselves at the ranger's office. Here, our identification documents and permits were checked. Mercifully, this process only took a few minutes. Before long, we were back on the boat, excited to go diving at Sipadan Island.

Barracuda Vortex

For our second dive of the day (1st at Sipadan), we headed to Barracuda Point. Located on the island's northern side, this is arguably Sipadan's most famous dive site. As we approached, we received great news: the barracudas were present!

In fact, we could see them from the boat, and the clarity of the water was great. According to our divemasters, we were lucky, as the barracuda school has been sporadic lately. 

We backrolled into the water and headed to their last seen location, accompanied by schools of unicornfish and triggerfish. Before long, their silvery silhouettes appeared out of the blue. And it was a sight to behold!

Hundreds of Blackfin Barracudas, shimmering in the sun-dappled waters, schooling right in front of us. Even as I was observing them, the school started swimming in a vortex, forming the so-called 'Barracuda Tornado'. A jaw-dropping moment for sure, if not for the regulator in my mouth!

The incredible sight of the barracuda 'tornado' materialises out of the blue.

As the current picked up, the 'tornado' gradually turned into a 'wall'. The fish effortlessly held their position against the current, forcing us to keep up. After enjoying the grand spectacle, I wanted to focus on the small details, and there were plenty of details to savour.

The fish themselves were a marvel: sleek, torpedo-shaped, resplendent in their silvery sheen and contrasting black fins. Their bodies were adorned with attractive vertical ladder-like bands, while their black, bottomless eyes pierced through the soul—sort of.

The 'tornado' gradually morphed into a 'wall', which was no less spectacular.

Showstopping Sharks

The show didn't end with the barracudas, though. Without much fanfare, a Grey Reef-Shark swam into view and disappeared almost as quickly. Minutes later, a sizable Whitetip Reef Shark was spotted resting on the bottom. These were very welcome encounters, as I've never seen these species before. 

The Whitetip was incredibly amazing, as it was fearless and allowed a close approach. Unlike others, the Whitetip can remain motionless and still breathe. This allowed us to observe it properly. Having said that, it was observing us as much as we were observing it!

The Whitetip Reef Shark was quite obliging.

40 minutes elapsed in what felt like only 10 minutes had passed. Reluctantly, we returned to our boat - humans are air-breathing land-dwellers. Still reeling from our mind-blowing experience, we returned to Sipadan for our lunch and surface interval.

Trevally Storm

For our last dive site of the day, we headed to another popular spot - South Point. Our target here was the Trevally (or Jackfish) school. Finding them proved to be unproblematic for our experienced dive crew.

The Bigeye Trevallies presented us with a mesmerising display no less impressive than the barracudas earlier. Unlike the barracudas, however, the trevallies allowed us to get up close and almost into the school. An extraordinary encounter indeed! 

A storm of shimmering silver among the blue.

South Point 

The rest of the dive around South Point was superlative. As we drifted slowly along a gentle current, we observed the reef's comings and goings. Beautiful coral gardens abound, surrounded by a kaleidoscope of colourful reef inhabitants.

Everywhere we looked, the underwater life was thriving. Green Turtles cruised around us, completely unafraid. Schools of Surgeonfishes grazed on algae while vibrant Anthias plucked at passing plankton. 

Flamboyantly patterned Butterflyfishes were rivalled only by the equally eye-catching Angelfishes. And in the distance, a Giant Trevally (the Bigeye's much larger cousin) prowled, ready to snatch any unwary prey. 

Drift diving along the reef wall at South Point.

Sayonara Sipadan

All too soon, our dive time was up. As I clambered awkwardly back on board, I couldn't help but smile at the spectacle I witnessed throughout the day.

It was heartening to see that the marine life at Sipadan was still abundant and thriving, not just the barracudas, sharks, or trevallies but also the corals, turtles, fish, and everything else. 

As a first-time visitor, naturally, I had high hopes. Even after just two dives, it is evident that Sipadan's reputation was well-deserved, easily exceeding all my expectations!

Other highlights while diving at Sipadan Island:

• Excellent visibility, more than 25m (both sites)
• Green Turtles in abundance
• Large-sized groupers, sweetlips, snappers and Napoleon Wrasse.
• Gorgeous and healthy coral formations are at both sites.
• Countless colourful coral reef creatures everywhere

Green Turtles are common around Sipadan. This one was resting near a ledge, unperturbed by the attention it was getting.

More photos from my dives at Sipadan

Stunning underwater vistas and superb visibility at Barracuda Point.

Vibrantly coloured Anthias thronged the reef at South Point, feeding on passing plankton.

Just a tiny fraction of the fish species found at Sipadan.

 This huge Giant Trevally was seen patrolling the reef dropoff at South Point.

Additional Information on diving at Sipadan Island:

Interested in going diving at Sipadan Island? Here are some things to know:

• The best deals and packages are at the Malaysian International Dive Expo (MIDE). The next iteration will be held in June 2024.
• A limited number of divers/permits are issued per day. Advanced booking for this permit is required. Your dive resort/operator will handle this when you make your booking. 
• You must be at least Advanced Open Water (or equivalent).
• Only two dives at Sipadan per diver per day. If your dive package has a third dive, it'll be near Mabul. 
• Bring your identification documents (IC or passport) to the island.
• More comprehensive Information can be found at Sipadan.com.

At the island:

• Ensure your diving skills are up to scratch before diving at Sipadan Island. Buoyancy control is especially important.
• Do NOT touch any coral or animal. Apparently, dive marshals will occasionally accompany diving parties to observe.
• Be aware that underwater currents can be quite challenging and often fluctuate. This is especially true at Barracuda Point.
• According to the divemasters, the 'barracuda tornado' is far from guaranteed. In fact, it's becoming relatively uncommon. You'll need to be lucky to experience it. 
• The surface interval will be on the island itself. There are several sheltered areas to have lunch. Public toilets are available on the island.
• Don't just focus on the 'big stuff', or you'll miss the myriad of delights Sipadan has to offer.

Sipadan dive sites. (Photo credit: Azriyanti Anuar Zaini)

Conclusion

Diving at Sipadan Island was an enchanting experience that will live long in memory. Everything about the island felt magical, from its pristine beauty and spectacular underwater visibility to its dazzling underwater life. Two dives feel utterly inadequate to fully experience what Sipadan has to offer.

Like many, I was well aware of the legendary reputation that Sipadan Island is one of the world's best dive sites. After experiencing it first-hand, it's easy to see why. I look forward to revisiting Sipadan in the not-too-distant future.