Here is a list of things to do in Bakelalan based on actual experiences that I have done over the years visiting this unique part of Sarawak, which borders Kalimantan.
Bakelalan is home to the Lun Bawang people, who live 3000 feet up in the Maligan Highlands, sometimes referred to as the Kelabit Highlands.
This is genuinely one of Sarawak's most hidden gems for an authentic tourism experience, so if you are up for something very different, then read on.
This is genuinely one of Sarawak's most hidden gems for an authentic tourism experience, so if you are up for something very different, then read on.
What To Do In Bakelalan
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| The general landscape view in Bakelalan |
There are no hotels or commercial shops, cafes or anything you can find in general towns or cities. Bakelalan is a highland village that has a population of around 1000 Lun Bawang people. Only homestays, local run restaurants, and sundry shops are what you will find here.
Bakelalan is perfect for anyone wanting a digital detox, escaping the city life or anyone wishing to experience the Sarawakian outdoors, culture and heritage.
Bakelalan also consists of nine villages, and each of them is connected by walking trails. So, below is the list of what to do in Bakelalan, created from my experiences.
Bakelalan also consists of nine villages, and each of them is connected by walking trails. So, below is the list of what to do in Bakelalan, created from my experiences.
1. Visit the Bakelalan Salt Factory
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| Locals with their Bakelalan salt at Buduk Bui |
Trips here are usually arranged by your homestay or tour operator, where you will take a 60-minute ride via 4WD. Once at the salt factory, you will be introduced to the traditional process of salt making, which dates back hundreds of years ago.
The unique part of the Bakelalan salt is that it is processed from natural salt springs that have been in the village for centuries.
There are actually three salt springs found in Bakelalan Buduk Bui, Pa Komap and Punang Kelalan, where Buduk Bui is the most popular Bakelalan salt factory to visit.
There are actually three salt springs found in Bakelalan Buduk Bui, Pa Komap and Punang Kelalan, where Buduk Bui is the most popular Bakelalan salt factory to visit.
2. Try the Lun Bawang Food
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| Preparing the local Lun Bawang food |
When you stay at any local homestay here, you will be introduced to traditional Lun Bawang cuisine, considered a very traditional ethnic food.
Most of the food is organic, grown, farmed and harvested in Bakelalan. However, I would prefer to use the word - Natural, as it has been here.
One of the signature dishes to try is the Nubalaya, pounded rice wrapped in banana leaves. If you are lucky, you can try pickled fish or game meat called Telu.
There is no Halal food for Muslim travellers, though maybe one or two families may have converted to Muslims, and you could probably get it there. Or, just bring your own rations for this trip.
Most of the food is organic, grown, farmed and harvested in Bakelalan. However, I would prefer to use the word - Natural, as it has been here.
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| Traditional Lun Bawang desserts |
There is no Halal food for Muslim travellers, though maybe one or two families may have converted to Muslims, and you could probably get it there. Or, just bring your own rations for this trip.
3. Go Trekking or Hiking in Bakelalan
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| View of Bakelalan from Pa Sarui Hill |
The locals use these trekking trails for hunting or even travel to other parts of the highlands.
Some of the trails are relatively easy, while others may be a little hard. One of the trails I hiked was actually to a hill behind the village called Pa Sarui.
The trails were accessible at the start but got a little hard halfway up, with a total time of about 90 minutes. The reward was excellent, as you could see the entire village from the top of Pa Sarui Hill.
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| Trekking up a hill |
These trails must be accompanied by a local guide, as you do not want to get lost here. On a side note, the border to Kalimantan is just kilometres away from Bakelalan, making this place one of the closest villages to Indonesia.
4. Experience a Traditional Lun Bawang Cultural Show
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| Lun Bawang women in traditional costume for the cultural show |
At this performance, you will be introduced to the traditional song and dance of the Lun Bawang people here.
The Lun Bawang traditional dances include the popular Hornbill dance, long dances, and single dances, accompanied by a Sape instrument being played.
The Lun Bawang traditional dances include the popular Hornbill dance, long dances, and single dances, accompanied by a Sape instrument being played.
The Lun Bawang people were once known as fierce warriors and headhunters but have no longer been since the turn of the century.
A traditional Lun Bawang dinner is also part of this experience, and for any first-timer to Bakelalan, this is not to be missed.
A traditional Lun Bawang dinner is also part of this experience, and for any first-timer to Bakelalan, this is not to be missed.
5. Bird Watching in Bakelalan
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| Some of the highland birds |
You need to engage a specialised company that does bird tours to Bakelalan, and there are not many around.
My itinerary was so filled up on my last trip here that I did not manage to do this, but on writing this in July 2018, I am planning a bird watching trip to Bakelalan this year.
You can find two endemic birds in Borneo in Bakelalan: the Dulit Frogmouth and the Black Oriole. Nowhere else on the island of Borneo can you spot them too.
You can find two endemic birds in Borneo in Bakelalan: the Dulit Frogmouth and the Black Oriole. Nowhere else on the island of Borneo can you spot them too.
Not to worry, as when I complete my bird watching here, I will surely post about it in my future postings. Yes, I am an amateur bird watcher with a lot of experience all over Sabah and Sarawak.
6. Try the Bakelalan Pineapples
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| A Bakelalan pineapple growing in the wild |
One of the places where you can see the Bakelalan pineapples growing is on the trek up to PA Sarui Hill, the part when it starts to ascend; there are pineapples grown in the wild.
So if you are lucky, you can find a ripe pineapple and eat it on your way up or down the hill. Not to worry, as these pineapples are free for all because no one wants to look after them.
So if you are lucky, you can find a ripe pineapple and eat it on your way up or down the hill. Not to worry, as these pineapples are free for all because no one wants to look after them.
7. See the Bakelalan Megalith Stones
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| The Bakelalan megalith stones. Photo by Carolyn from Footsteps on the Fringe. |
The Bakelalan ancient stone monuments are seen at Long Lemutut village, and a few of them carry their own stories.
One of the more popular and accessible megaliths is the Upai Semaring Stove at Pa Tawing. Here, four to five massive boulders make up a cooking stove area, as the legend Upai Semaring was known to be a giant.
One of the more popular and accessible megaliths is the Upai Semaring Stove at Pa Tawing. Here, four to five massive boulders make up a cooking stove area, as the legend Upai Semaring was known to be a giant.
If you have seen the Bario Megalith stones, the ones here in Bakelalan are totally different, minus the carvings and purely myth or legend driven. However, a good guide will share a fascinating story about them.
8. Visit the Bakelalan Waterfalls
According to Kevin from Dayak Wanderer, there are two main waterfalls in Bakelalan worth exploring.
They are the Ritan Waterfall and the Pa Kumap Waterfalls. Both require trekking and are generally half to a full-day trip. Honestly, I have not been to either, but I plan to do so.
Pa Kumap Waterfalls in Bakelalan is the nearer one, only two treks from the village and can be done in half a day.
The Ritan Waterfalls is the harder one, about six to eight hours of trekking. Generally, people would take a 4X4 to get here, as it saves time.
I found out that there are, in fact, a few other smaller waterfalls located in Bakelalan, but sadly due to the hydroelectric dam project, most of these waterfalls have shrunk in size, with very little water.
9. Try the Bakelalan Rice Coffee
One of the most intriguing things I did when I visited Bakelalan trying the local rice coffee. I have to admit, in my lifetime, I had never heard of rice being made into coffee until I saw this place.
They call this Bera Kopi, or literally rice coffee made from Adan rice, one of the highest grades of highland rice. The rice is fried in a pan over firewood, and sugar is added while constantly stirring the rice to caramelise it a little.
After the rice turns to a dark reddish-brown, it is ready to be made into your regular black coffee. The method is straightforward: put the rice in a cup, add hot water, and stir. Sift it, and your Bakelalan coffee is ready.
10. Visit the Bakelalan Strawberry Farm
Since Bakelalan stopped growing apples, some local farmers have grown strawberries as the climate is more suitable here. The Bakelalan strawberries project was initiated in 2015, and the farm is located in Buduk Nur.
This private farm is owned by local Purait Gatum or Tagal Paran (Pak Tagal), and they open their houses and farms for visitors who want to come and see his Bakelalan strawberries. You can even buy them fresh from his farm.
11. Try the Bakelalan Apples
This one is a little vague, but you should know that Bakelalan was once the apple capital of Malaysia. Yes, they grew apples in Bakelalan, which was a fantastic feat, considering that Malaysia is a tropical country.
I was told by a local that they stopped apple farming many years ago due to manpower shortage and weather changes in Bakelalan.
However, the good news is that some of the locals recently started to plant apples in early 2018; hence it takes three to four years before we can see fruits.
But there are a few apple trees still being grown in Bakelalan, but unfortunately, they are not well taken care of, and if you are lucky, they may be fruiting. Or else, do ask about the other unique fruits they grow here, like oranges, grapes, and even persimmons.
8. Visit the Bakelalan Waterfalls
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| One of the Bakelalan waterfalls. Photo by Carolyn from Footsteps on the Fringe. |
They are the Ritan Waterfall and the Pa Kumap Waterfalls. Both require trekking and are generally half to a full-day trip. Honestly, I have not been to either, but I plan to do so.
Pa Kumap Waterfalls in Bakelalan is the nearer one, only two treks from the village and can be done in half a day.
The Ritan Waterfalls is the harder one, about six to eight hours of trekking. Generally, people would take a 4X4 to get here, as it saves time.
I found out that there are, in fact, a few other smaller waterfalls located in Bakelalan, but sadly due to the hydroelectric dam project, most of these waterfalls have shrunk in size, with very little water.
9. Try the Bakelalan Rice Coffee
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| Bakelalan Rice Coffee or Kopi Bera |
They call this Bera Kopi, or literally rice coffee made from Adan rice, one of the highest grades of highland rice. The rice is fried in a pan over firewood, and sugar is added while constantly stirring the rice to caramelise it a little.
After the rice turns to a dark reddish-brown, it is ready to be made into your regular black coffee. The method is straightforward: put the rice in a cup, add hot water, and stir. Sift it, and your Bakelalan coffee is ready.
10. Visit the Bakelalan Strawberry Farm
Since Bakelalan stopped growing apples, some local farmers have grown strawberries as the climate is more suitable here. The Bakelalan strawberries project was initiated in 2015, and the farm is located in Buduk Nur.
This private farm is owned by local Purait Gatum or Tagal Paran (Pak Tagal), and they open their houses and farms for visitors who want to come and see his Bakelalan strawberries. You can even buy them fresh from his farm.
11. Try the Bakelalan Apples
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| A Lun Bawang girl holds the Bakelalan Apples. Photo by Cinta. |
I was told by a local that they stopped apple farming many years ago due to manpower shortage and weather changes in Bakelalan.
However, the good news is that some of the locals recently started to plant apples in early 2018; hence it takes three to four years before we can see fruits.
But there are a few apple trees still being grown in Bakelalan, but unfortunately, they are not well taken care of, and if you are lucky, they may be fruiting. Or else, do ask about the other unique fruits they grow here, like oranges, grapes, and even persimmons.
12. Attend the Irau Aco Lun Bawang Festival (Special)
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| The Irau Aco Lun Bawang Festival held in Lawas. Photo by Irau Aco FB Page. |
Known as a rice harvest festival for the Lun Bawang people, this is also in conjunction with the Gawai Festival celebrated all over Sarawak.
The Lun Bawang people celebrate this all over Bakelalan on a local scale. Still, if you want to fully experience this on a large scale, the main event will take place in Lawas, which hosts the Irau Aco Lun Bawang Festival.
At Lawas, you will see a Lun Bawang beauty pageant contest called Rurun Ulung and the male warrior contest.
Visitors can also find the Ngiup Suling, a local traditional bamboo flute band accompanied by an Angklung performance, a traditional bamboo instrument being performed here.
Visitors can also find the Ngiup Suling, a local traditional bamboo flute band accompanied by an Angklung performance, a traditional bamboo instrument being performed here.
Many other activities occur day and night; hence this is one of the Lun Bawang festivals not to be missed if you love all things ethnic.
When is the Best Time to Visit Bakelalan?
For me, anytime is a good time as Bakelalan is located in the highlands, the temperature is constantly cooling, and ranges from around 19°C and 24°C.
If you want to see the beautiful green paddy fields in Bakelalan, the best time for this is from November to early December.
This is when the paddy fields are in full green colour. At the end of December, the colour begins to turn golden yellow for the harvest.
The rainy season in Bakelalan is from November to January, but it can rain anytime with today's unpredictable weather. In other months, it is often dry season.
June is the harvest season celebration for Gawai and is also an excellent time to experience the local Lun Bawang harvest festival in Bakelalan.
When is the Best Time to Visit Bakelalan?
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| A rare sunset was seen in Bakelalan by the airport when I was here. |
If you want to see the beautiful green paddy fields in Bakelalan, the best time for this is from November to early December.
This is when the paddy fields are in full green colour. At the end of December, the colour begins to turn golden yellow for the harvest.
The rainy season in Bakelalan is from November to January, but it can rain anytime with today's unpredictable weather. In other months, it is often dry season.
June is the harvest season celebration for Gawai and is also an excellent time to experience the local Lun Bawang harvest festival in Bakelalan.
How to go to Bakelalan?
Overall, Bakelalan is one of the truly remarkable destinations in Sarawak, which caters to a very niche breed of tourism.
Due to connectivity and infrastructure, this place is not that easy to access and here is the best way to travel to Bakelalan.
Flights to Bakelalan - I highly recommend you book a flight there and back, as it only takes about an hour from Miri with a quick stopover in Lawas. There are only three flights a week, Monday, Wednesday and Saturday.
You also need to book well in advance if you plan to travel in two or more groups. There is also a strict weight allowance for passengers, and usually, flights will take up to 12 or 14 passengers, even though they say it is a 19 seater aircraft.
4x4 to Bakelalan - The old way and is still used by the locals to transport items. However, you need to do this via Lawas and a travel agent specialising in Bakelalan tours.
The 4x4 journey will take you about four to five hours one way through logging roads, plantations, and beautiful picturesque scenery.
You will also experience the famous Bornean massage on this journey. No, not that one, but the one sitting in a bumpy 4x4 for the entire trip. I did this!
Other Ways - Sadly, the above are the only two ways to go to Bakelalan. There are no buses or trains for this experience. Out of curiosity, I did a Google check for walking to Bakelalan from Laws, and it would take you 31 hours non-stop.
What Should I Bring To Bakelalan?
This has to be added; if not, visitors will travel with their extra-large luggage bags, hairdryers, laptops, etc. First of all, if you take a flight here, they need to weigh you and your luggage. So, just bring what you need.
Conclusion
If you have been looking for a unique destination in Malaysia to explore, rustic and out of the ordinary, Bakelalan is just the perfect place to visit. Remember that Bakelalan and Bario are not your regular tourist destination.
For those contemplating where to visit, you can also read about my travel to the Bario Highlands, the sister village of Bakelalan. I have seen both, and each has its own unique experiences.
Bakelalan is suitable for anyone who wants to experience what natural tourism in Malaysia is all about. This location lets you share what the local Lun Bawang highland people go through in everyday life, sweet and straightforward.
There are few phone signals and WiFi available; hence you will most likely be disconnected from your daily grind.
I call this a digital detox suitable for everyone, especially when you know everyone is attached to their smartphones and gadgets nowadays.
Up here, you will embark on a unique experience and learn about the Lun Bawang culture, and feast on the local food while exploring the many things to do in Bakelalan, as shared above.
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| A DCH6 Twin Otter aircraft operated by MasWings landing at Bakelalan airport |
Due to connectivity and infrastructure, this place is not that easy to access and here is the best way to travel to Bakelalan.
Flights to Bakelalan - I highly recommend you book a flight there and back, as it only takes about an hour from Miri with a quick stopover in Lawas. There are only three flights a week, Monday, Wednesday and Saturday.
You also need to book well in advance if you plan to travel in two or more groups. There is also a strict weight allowance for passengers, and usually, flights will take up to 12 or 14 passengers, even though they say it is a 19 seater aircraft.
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| 4x4's that travel to Bakelalan |
The 4x4 journey will take you about four to five hours one way through logging roads, plantations, and beautiful picturesque scenery.
You will also experience the famous Bornean massage on this journey. No, not that one, but the one sitting in a bumpy 4x4 for the entire trip. I did this!
Other Ways - Sadly, the above are the only two ways to go to Bakelalan. There are no buses or trains for this experience. Out of curiosity, I did a Google check for walking to Bakelalan from Laws, and it would take you 31 hours non-stop.
What Should I Bring To Bakelalan?
This has to be added; if not, visitors will travel with their extra-large luggage bags, hairdryers, laptops, etc. First of all, if you take a flight here, they need to weigh you and your luggage. So, just bring what you need.
- Trekking backpack
- Trekking clothes and shoes (I just use Adidas Kampung)
- GPS tracker if you plan to explore on your own
- Mosquito and insect repellent
- A special dietary food, if required
- Snacks and junk food if you must
- Halal or vegetarian food for special needs
- Camera and chargers
- A book would be a nice touch
- A good attitude towards the amazing local Lun Bawang people
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| Stunning landscapes waiting to be discovered in Ba Kelalan |
If you have been looking for a unique destination in Malaysia to explore, rustic and out of the ordinary, Bakelalan is just the perfect place to visit. Remember that Bakelalan and Bario are not your regular tourist destination.
For those contemplating where to visit, you can also read about my travel to the Bario Highlands, the sister village of Bakelalan. I have seen both, and each has its own unique experiences.
 |
| An image of what you can expect in Bakelalan |
There are few phone signals and WiFi available; hence you will most likely be disconnected from your daily grind.
I call this a digital detox suitable for everyone, especially when you know everyone is attached to their smartphones and gadgets nowadays.
Up here, you will embark on a unique experience and learn about the Lun Bawang culture, and feast on the local food while exploring the many things to do in Bakelalan, as shared above.