Lachau Town, an Iban Trading Post in Sarawak
Lachau Town is a very small town along the main highway to Sibi, Bintulu, Miri and Sarikei in Sarawak. One may ask what is s special about this town that at a blink of your eye, you would miss it. The town is well known for stop overs with tourist on route to visiting the original Iban longhouses near Lubuk Antu or Batang Ai (Where the Longhouse Hilton is located)
Signpost on Highway 1 in Sarawak
Sarawak has only one main highway (Highway 1) connecting all the main towns from Kuching so Lachau would be along the way after Serian and Sri Aman. Most people would just drive past this town as there is nothing special here, but for the traveler or tourist, Lachau is an important stop for a toilet break or just to stretch your legs and have a drink while on the way to visit the Iban Longhouse.
Lachau Town - Grocery shops
Lachau is so small that there are only three rows of shops here. I kid you not when I say "blink your eye and you would have missed it". The unique thing about this town that closes after 4pm is that many of the Iban people around the area would bring their wares here and barter trade with the local shopkeepers. And you thought barter was no longer in use? Well, you are wrong as it still goes on in Lachau.
Lachau Town - One of the Grocery cum Souvenir shops
The shop lots in Lachau are all run by the Sarawakian Chinese and all you see are general grocery stores, about 10 of them and about five coffee shops cum restaurants. You get your general groceries here and is usually frequented by the local Iban people.
Lachau Town - All kinds of groceries sold
So, what is so special about this place called Lachau? It is the fact that the Iban people would bring hand crafted items to barter with the shopkeepers for general goods. Items are usually hand crafted parangs (swords), warrior shields, statues, weaved baskets and even antique Iban items like Gongs, Jars and Jewellery.
Lachau Town - Iban weaved baskets
Occasionally, you would find some really rare Iban artifacts being sold here for a steal. Trust me, this is one of my main shopping grounds whenever I visit Sarawak. The prices here are way much cheaper than what you find at the craft shops at the Waterfront in Kuching town.
Lachau Town - Iban wood carved statues
I was also told by Berek and Selvam - My personal guides in Kuching, that native tribes, namely the Iban of Kalimantan would cross over the border with wares and visit Lachau to barter trade. In return, the shopkeepers would give them a place to stay before they make their way back to Kalimantan via foot. Yes, these Kalimantan Iban would trek over 4 to 6 hours across the border by foot with the basket of wares. Note that the Kalimantan border is just a 2 hour trek from Lachau and is the nearest border to Sarawak.
Lachau Town - Iban parangs and knives
So, depending on the time, you would get different designs and styles of items sold here at Lachau. Excess items are also sold to dealers from the shops at the Waterfront in Kuching and the price would be almost 30% to 50% higher there.
Lachau Town - Assortment of Iban craft
There are about 3 to 4 shops in Lachau that specialize in barter trading with the Iban people so you get a good variety of goods here. Among some of the other items available are miniature sized statues of tribesmen and various animals. They come in small, medium and large carvings and some of them very well finished.
Lachau Town - Iban warrior shields and daggers
One of my favourites are the Hornbill Bird carvings. Locally known as the Kenyalang, these intricately carved birds also come in a few sizes. I personally bought 3 of them for my collection. Well, I do have an eye on one of the extra large antique Kenyalang carving which cost about RM1,200 (US$342). Maybe on my next trip there, I would get this.
Lachau Town - Teh C Peng Special (Local Special Tea)
The town of Lachau has also been in the media back in 2005 due to a conflict of meaning where a member of Parliment brought this case up. "Junaidi (An MP) suggested that the name of a small town in Sarawak - Lachau - be changed as it carried an inappropriate meaning. MPs were tickled as they knew what he was referring to. "Lachau" sounds similar to the word for male genitalia in the Hokkien dialect."
Finally, stopping over at Lachau town before the Iban longhouse, I always make it a point to have my favourite Teh-C-Peng (Special Layer Tea with Brown Sugar) and a plate of Kolok Mee (Sarawakian Dry Noodles).
Best way to get to Lachau would be to self drive from Kuching, about one and a half hours or if you take a Longhouse Tour package, just check with your tour guide on this.
Signpost on Highway 1 in SarawakSarawak has only one main highway (Highway 1) connecting all the main towns from Kuching so Lachau would be along the way after Serian and Sri Aman. Most people would just drive past this town as there is nothing special here, but for the traveler or tourist, Lachau is an important stop for a toilet break or just to stretch your legs and have a drink while on the way to visit the Iban Longhouse.
Lachau Town - Grocery shopsLachau is so small that there are only three rows of shops here. I kid you not when I say "blink your eye and you would have missed it". The unique thing about this town that closes after 4pm is that many of the Iban people around the area would bring their wares here and barter trade with the local shopkeepers. And you thought barter was no longer in use? Well, you are wrong as it still goes on in Lachau.
Lachau Town - One of the Grocery cum Souvenir shopsThe shop lots in Lachau are all run by the Sarawakian Chinese and all you see are general grocery stores, about 10 of them and about five coffee shops cum restaurants. You get your general groceries here and is usually frequented by the local Iban people.
Lachau Town - All kinds of groceries soldSo, what is so special about this place called Lachau? It is the fact that the Iban people would bring hand crafted items to barter with the shopkeepers for general goods. Items are usually hand crafted parangs (swords), warrior shields, statues, weaved baskets and even antique Iban items like Gongs, Jars and Jewellery.
Lachau Town - Iban weaved basketsOccasionally, you would find some really rare Iban artifacts being sold here for a steal. Trust me, this is one of my main shopping grounds whenever I visit Sarawak. The prices here are way much cheaper than what you find at the craft shops at the Waterfront in Kuching town.
Lachau Town - Iban wood carved statuesI was also told by Berek and Selvam - My personal guides in Kuching, that native tribes, namely the Iban of Kalimantan would cross over the border with wares and visit Lachau to barter trade. In return, the shopkeepers would give them a place to stay before they make their way back to Kalimantan via foot. Yes, these Kalimantan Iban would trek over 4 to 6 hours across the border by foot with the basket of wares. Note that the Kalimantan border is just a 2 hour trek from Lachau and is the nearest border to Sarawak.
Lachau Town - Iban parangs and knivesSo, depending on the time, you would get different designs and styles of items sold here at Lachau. Excess items are also sold to dealers from the shops at the Waterfront in Kuching and the price would be almost 30% to 50% higher there.
Lachau Town - Assortment of Iban craftThere are about 3 to 4 shops in Lachau that specialize in barter trading with the Iban people so you get a good variety of goods here. Among some of the other items available are miniature sized statues of tribesmen and various animals. They come in small, medium and large carvings and some of them very well finished.
Lachau Town - Iban warrior shields and daggersOne of my favourites are the Hornbill Bird carvings. Locally known as the Kenyalang, these intricately carved birds also come in a few sizes. I personally bought 3 of them for my collection. Well, I do have an eye on one of the extra large antique Kenyalang carving which cost about RM1,200 (US$342). Maybe on my next trip there, I would get this.
Lachau Town - Teh C Peng Special (Local Special Tea)The town of Lachau has also been in the media back in 2005 due to a conflict of meaning where a member of Parliment brought this case up. "Junaidi (An MP) suggested that the name of a small town in Sarawak - Lachau - be changed as it carried an inappropriate meaning. MPs were tickled as they knew what he was referring to. "Lachau" sounds similar to the word for male genitalia in the Hokkien dialect."
Finally, stopping over at Lachau town before the Iban longhouse, I always make it a point to have my favourite Teh-C-Peng (Special Layer Tea with Brown Sugar) and a plate of Kolok Mee (Sarawakian Dry Noodles).
Best way to get to Lachau would be to self drive from Kuching, about one and a half hours or if you take a Longhouse Tour package, just check with your tour guide on this.
Map to Pekan Lachau in Sarawak
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~ David Jr
8 comments:
That iced Teh C is something different. We have teh C here and I like to drink it hot. But never served with brown sugar. It's served with evaporated milk and sugar.
The Iban weaved baskets are nice souvenirs.
I went to Sri Aman from Kuching a few times and never stop there. The last time I stopped there was more than 10 years ago. :p I don't even know they sell handicrafts. Thanks for your info and I will stop next time I go to Sri Aman.
Ha.. The "highway" from Serian onward needs to be improved.
Teh C Peng with brown sugar is now making its way into KL coffee shops. heh, I do not need to go so far to get a dose of it.
But now I know where to find cheaper handicrafts. To Lachau the next time I am there!
Mei - The Teh C Peng Special is found throughout Sarawak and different places give you different types. There was one in Miri where I tried it with Green Pandan Sugar. Most amazing!
Colin - Yes, I agree, they need to continue the highway all the way. Smooth ride to Serian then back to old roads.
Nicholas - Strangely it does not taste good at all here. I mean after you have the best in Sarawak, the ones here are not quite there. I mean, it's like eating Penang Fried Kuey Teow in Kuching.
David
Lachau.... OK... need to pronounce it few times, to make it 'right'... ;-p
cool post david! on the way to which iban longhouse? would going to kapit be a good idea? are there longhouses there?
how can i get in touch with your local guides, berek and selvam? send me email ok? it's on my blog profile. thank you!
oops i see it :) lubok antu/batang ai
but why would one go there when there is already an iban longhouse, as you yourself pointed out in another blog entry, in SCV? if i'd been to the one in scv, wouldn't i see more of the same thing in batang ai/lubok antu? thanks, appreciate your feedback
Cath - You're right as a Malaysian :)
Louise - Actually, SCV is for those who do not have time in Kuching. A quick visit would see most of the tribes in one place.
however, the one in Lemanak is actually a real living Iban longhouse. So you get to see the real thing. How they live and so on. Plus it would be an eye-opener to visit these longhouses.
Regards,
David
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